As the air turns crisp and the grass finally stops growing, it’s tempting to just shove your lawnmower into the back of the garage and forget about it until next spring. I’ll admit, I used to do exactly that. After all, once the leaves start falling, who’s thinking about lawn care anymore? But over the years, I’ve learned that a little bit of care in the fall can make a huge difference when it’s time to fire up the mower again in the spring.
Winterizing your lawnmower isn’t complicated, but it’s one of those small chores that pays off big time. It protects your machine from rust, corrosion, and fuel problems — and it can save you the hassle (and expense) of springtime repairs. Plus, it extends the overall life of your mower, which means you get more mileage out of your investment.
Whether you have a basic push mower, a self-propelled model, or even a riding mower, the basics of winter prep are the same. Here’s how I tackle it each year to make sure my mower is ready to go when the grass starts greening up again.
Cleaning and Inspection
The first step is giving the mower a thorough cleaning. It’s not the most glamorous job, but it’s probably the most important. Leftover grass clippings, dirt, and moisture are a perfect recipe for rust and corrosion over the winter months.
Start with the deck — the underside where the blade spins. I usually tip the mower carefully on its side (making sure the air filter and carburetor stay on the up side to avoid leaks). Then, using a plastic scraper or putty knife, I chip away at the caked-on grass and debris. If you’ve got a garden hose handy and it’s not freezing outside, a quick spray can help loosen stubborn buildup. Just make sure to let everything dry thoroughly before moving on — you don’t want to trap moisture against the metal parts.
Next, check the blades. If the blade is nicked, bent, or dull, it’s worth taking it off and either sharpening it yourself or bringing it to a shop. A sharp blade makes a world of difference in cutting quality, and it’s a lot easier to deal with it now than after a rough first mow in spring.
Give the body a once-over. Look for any signs of wear or damage. Belts should be intact, cables should move freely, and wheels should spin smoothly without wobbling. I like to tighten up any loose bolts or screws now too — small issues can turn into bigger problems if they’re left unchecked over the winter.
Finally, check the air filter if you have a gas mower. If it’s reusable, knock the dust out and clean it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If it’s disposable and looks really dirty, go ahead and replace it now — they’re usually inexpensive, and a clean filter helps the engine run better.
Taking the time to do this thorough inspection now saves a lot of headache later. Plus, it feels good to know you’re not just stashing away a ticking time bomb of problems for next year.
If you have a reel mower, you’re basically done! Keep reading, though, to learn more about winterizing your gas lawnmower, or click here to skip to the section about battery-powered mowers!
Fuel System Prep
Once the mower’s cleaned up, it’s time to deal with the fuel system — something a lot of people skip, but honestly, it’s one of the most important steps if you want to avoid a whole lot of frustration in the spring.
The trouble with gas is that it doesn’t stay fresh forever. Over just a few months, it can start to break down, leaving behind varnish-like deposits that can clog up the carburetor, fuel lines, and even the tank itself. I learned this the hard way one year when my mower just wouldn’t start no matter what I tried. After taking it apart (and making a big mess), I found that old, gunky fuel was the culprit. Ever since then, I make sure to deal with it properly at the end of the season.
There are two good options for winterizing the fuel system: either run the mower dry or treat the gas with a stabilizer.
Option 1: Running the Tank Dry
Some folks prefer to simply run the mower until it’s completely out of gas. This works fine, especially for smaller push mowers. I usually just let it idle in the driveway until it sputters and stops. This ensures there’s no fuel left to degrade over the winter. If you go this route, it’s a good idea to start the mower a couple of times after it dies, just to make sure there’s no leftover gas in the lines or carburetor.
Option 2: Using a Fuel Stabilizer
Personally, I like using a fuel stabilizer — especially if there’s still quite a bit of gas in the tank. It’s simple: you add the stabilizer according to the bottle’s directions, start the engine, and let it run for about 5–10 minutes. This pulls the treated fuel through the carburetor and all the critical parts. Stabilized gas can sit safely for months without gumming up the system.
A quick tip: if you go with a stabilizer, make sure you’re using fresh gas. If the fuel is already old, stabilizer won’t magically fix it — it’ll just preserve what’s already started to break down.
One thing not to do: Don’t just leave untreated fuel sitting in the mower over the winter. It might start fine once or twice in the spring, but eventually, you’ll pay the price with hard starts, poor performance, or a pricey repair bill. A little effort now really does go a long way.
Oil Change and Engine Care
After the fuel system’s squared away, the next step is giving the engine a little attention. Changing the oil before storage isn’t just good practice — it can actually prevent old, contaminated oil from sitting inside the engine all winter, which can cause internal damage over time. Dirty oil contains tiny metal shavings and combustion byproducts that you definitely don’t want hanging around for months.
Changing the Oil
First things first, check your owner’s manual for specific oil type and change instructions (different mowers can have slightly different setups). In general, though, changing the oil is pretty straightforward:
- Start the engine for a couple of minutes to warm up the oil slightly. Warm oil drains faster and more completely.
- Turn it off and disconnect the spark plug wire for safety — you don’t want any accidental starts while your hands are near the blade.
- Tip the mower onto its side (again making sure the carburetor and air filter are facing up) or use the oil drain plug if your model has one.
- Drain the old oil into a container. I use an old pan or an oil drain tub — just make sure you dispose of the used oil properly at a recycling center or auto parts store.
- Refill with fresh oil, checking the level carefully. Overfilling can cause problems, so take your time here.
It’s a satisfying job, honestly — like giving your mower a fresh start before tucking it away for the season.
Checking the Spark Plug
While you’re working around the engine, it’s smart to check the spark plug. A bad or dirty spark plug can cause hard starts, rough running, or even prevent the mower from firing up at all come spring.
I usually pull the spark plug out using a basic socket wrench. If it looks clean and the electrode isn’t too worn, you can often just clean it with a wire brush and re-gap it if needed. But if it’s blackened, oily, or you’re just not sure? It’s cheap insurance to pop in a new one. Most mower spark plugs cost under ten bucks, and they can save a lot of frustration later.
Air Filter Revisit
If you didn’t already replace or clean the air filter earlier during inspection, now’s the time. A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, making it work harder and wear out faster. Again, it’s a small, inexpensive step that really does matter.
Between clean oil, a healthy spark plug, and a good air filter, your mower’s engine will be in prime shape to roar back to life when the snow finally melts.
Battery, Storage, and Final Steps
If you’ve got a gas-powered push mower, you might not have to worry about a battery. But for those of us with electric start models — or especially battery-powered cordless mowers — a little battery care is essential.
Battery Care
For electric start mowers that have a small lead-acid battery, it’s a good idea to remove the battery and store it somewhere indoors where it won’t freeze. Freezing temperatures can ruin a battery or seriously shorten its lifespan. I usually wipe mine down with a dry cloth to remove any dirt or corrosion from the terminals. If you have a trickle charger (also called a battery maintainer), hooking the battery up to that over the winter can help keep it healthy.
If you’ve got a cordless electric mower (like the newer lithium-ion models), remove the battery packs entirely and bring them inside. Extreme cold is tough on lithium batteries, and storing them in a freezing garage or shed could mean reduced run time — or worse, a dead battery — come spring.
Blade Maintenance
While you’re finishing up, take another look at the blade if you haven’t already addressed it. If it’s dull but still in decent shape, you can sharpen it yourself with a metal file or a bench grinder. Otherwise, this is a good time to take it to a shop for professional sharpening. Some hardware stores even offer sharpening services for just a few bucks.
If the blade’s really chewed up — maybe you hit a rock or two during the season — it’s smart to just replace it. Sharp blades mean cleaner cuts and healthier grass when you start mowing again.
Lubricating Moving Parts
A little lubricant goes a long way when it comes to preserving your mower. I keep a can of silicone spray or light machine oil handy and give a quick squirt to wheel bearings, cables, and pivot points. This helps prevent rust and keeps everything moving smoothly after months of sitting idle.
Proper Storage
Finally, think about where you’re storing your mower, no matter what type it is. Ideally, you want a dry, sheltered space — a garage, shed, or even a well-covered patio. If possible, store it off the ground to avoid moisture buildup from the concrete or soil. I’ve found that placing a tarp underneath and lightly covering the mower with a breathable cloth (not a plastic tarp that traps condensation) keeps it cleaner and prevents rust.
One more personal tip: If space is tight, consider a simple wall hook or a heavy-duty storage rack for push mowers. Getting it up and off the floor saves space and keeps it out of the path of any winter snowmelt or garage runoff.
Winterizing your lawnmower isn’t a big job, but it’s one of those classic homeowner habits that really pays off. A clean, maintained mower fires up easier, cuts better, and simply lasts longer. It’s the difference between enjoying your first warm weekend in spring — or wrestling with a stubborn, sputtering machine when you’d rather be outside.
After years of doing this routine, it’s become almost automatic — a little ritual that feels like officially closing out the yard work season. Trust me, when that first sunny Saturday rolls around and your mower purrs to life on the first pull (or push of a button), you’ll be glad you took the extra time now.
